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Samoa Backpackers Guide
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South Pacific Backpacking
our rankings - select destination for more info
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Samoa backpackers often rate the country as the very best in the South Pacific. The beaches are gorgeous, the culture is rich, prices are reasonable, getting around is easy and above all else, Samoa is yet to be discovered by the backpacker crowds. And above all else, there is an excellent system of beach fales operated by local Samoan families where budget travellers can stay at the more beautiful and remote spots around Samoa. However, tourism here is still low key so if you are looking to meet loads of fellow travellers and have a boozy time, then you might be disappointed.
Apia, the capital town on the north coast of Upolu, is the starting point for all journeys. The town has some lively bars and restaurants and the excellent local beer, Vailima, is cheap. The best place to gather tourist information is from the Travellers Lounge close to Aggie Grey's on Beach Road which also has internet cafe, international phones, snacks, coffeee and ice cream. This independent tourist information centre with cafe lounge, alfresco seating and internet booths is close to Aggie Grey Hotel overlooking the harbour. Apia has plenty of budget hostels in the heart of town from basic dorms (US$8 per night) and cheap motel rooms to affordable colonial guest houses. Apia makes a good base for exploring the island but if you are looking for the beach, you need to get out.
You won't find any Samoa backpackers hostels with dorm beds other than in Apia. However, an excellent system of beach fales are operated by local villagers throughout the islands. Beach fales are simple raised wooden structures, usually hexagonal in shape, with open sides to let the breeze through but with coconut fronds which are lowered at night for privacy. These fales sit right on the beach alongside local villages or in exceptionally beautiful locations and have been used by locals for generations as places to overnight.
Beach Fales have recently become very popular with backpackers and discerning travellers wanting to experience the real Samoa. There are even several up-market beach fales for those who prefer their privacy. Costing from just US$30 per night including linen and 3 meals per day, this is an excellent way to enjoy a cheap beach holiday and submerge yourself into the local culture. There are at least thirty such collections of beach fales around Samoa and several lovely secluded spots on lagoons and wetlands.
Our Guide to the Beach Fales
Immersing yourself into Samoan culture is an unusual experience. Respect the culture and you will be welcomed with open arms - disrespect it and you will be shown a cold shoulder or even hostility.
Samoan culture is very strong and very traditional. The aiga, or extended family, lies at the heart of Samoan culture - food, wealth, problems and even fights are shared across this extended family, and powers or weaknesses gained collectively. Most Samoans are very poor in material goods but aspire to material wealth for the good of the aiga. However, tourists flashing too much material wealth are viewed with great suspicion.
Single males will need to be on guard - the women are extremely beautiful and seemingly promiscuous - but you are unlikely to get far without meeting the family first - and then prepare for the pressure of marriage. If you take this drastic step you will be expected to share your wealth and help your new relatives in every which way - from donating to the church fund to finding a job for one of your new relatives in your home country - this is the cunning ultimatum of female promiscuity and neither age nor character matters - it is simply a passport to the riches of the western world.
Likewise, single women need to be on guard - Western women are seen as easy game and short dresses or partial nudity (showing the stomach for example) is seen as a 'come on' and Samoan men will react with fervour. Though seemingly persistent in their efforts, a firm and stern decline will end their pursuit. Topless sunbathing is a definite NO in Samoa.
Homosexuality is officially forbidden in Samoa, although the tradition of the Fa'afafine, men who cross dress and behave in a feminine manner, is strong. So, although open in manner, homosexuality is still considered against God's will and is frowned upon by this macho society. The best approach is to keep a low profile, especially for women whom homosexuality is seen as an even greater sin.
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